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You plug your phone in before bed. You wake up and it’s still at 12%. Or the cable only works at a certain angle. Or your phone doesn’t recognise the charger at all.

Charging problems are one of the most common repairs we handle at our City Rd shop. Before you assume your phone is dying, here’s what’s probably going on and how to fix it.

The Most Likely Cause: Your Charging Port Is Blocked

This is the number one reason phones stop charging properly, and it’s the simplest to fix.

Your phone lives in your pocket. Pockets are full of lint, dust, and tiny fibres. Over months, this debris gets packed into the bottom of your charging port every time you push the cable in. Eventually, the cable can’t make proper contact with the pins inside the port.

Signs of a blocked port:

• The cable feels loose and falls out easily
• Charging only works if you hold the cable at a specific angle
• The phone charges intermittently – connects and disconnects repeatedly
• The cable doesn’t click into place like it used to

Can You Clean It Yourself?

You can try, but be careful:

• Don’t use a metal pin or needle – you’ll scratch the connector pins and cause permanent damage
• Don’t blow into it – moisture from your breath can cause corrosion
• Try a wooden toothpick – gently scrape the bottom of the port to loosen compacted lint. Work carefully and don’t force it
• Compressed air – a short burst from a can of compressed air can dislodge loose debris

If the toothpick trick doesn’t work, or if you’re not comfortable poking around inside your phone’s port, bring it in. We clean charging ports professionally with anti-static tools – it takes five minutes and costs far less than a port replacement.

The Cable Might Be the Problem

Before blaming your phone, check your cable and charger:

• Try a different cable – cables wear out, especially at the connector ends where they bend. If a different cable works, your phone is fine
• Try a different power adapter – wall plugs can fail too. Test with a different one
• Try a different power source – plug into a wall socket instead of a laptop USB port, which delivers less power
• Check the cable connector – look for bent pins, corrosion, or visible damage on the Lightning or USB-C end

Cheap cables from online marketplaces are a common culprit. They work initially but degrade fast. Stick to branded or MFi-certified cables (for iPhones) or cables from reputable brands.

Software Issues That Affect Charging

Sometimes the problem is software, not hardware:

• Restart your phone – a simple restart fixes a surprising number of charging issues by resetting the power management system
• Check for updates – operating system updates sometimes include fixes for charging and battery management bugs
• Check battery health – on iPhone, go to Settings > Battery > Battery Health. If maximum capacity is below 80%, the battery is degraded and may not charge properly. On Samsung, check Settings > Battery > Battery Status

When the Charging Port Actually Needs Replacing

If you’ve tried different cables, cleaned the port, and restarted the phone, and it still won’t charge properly, the charging port itself may be damaged.

Common causes of port damage:

• Water or moisture exposure – corrosion on the internal pins. Even small amounts of moisture from rain or humidity can cause this over time
• Physical damage – the port has been bent or broken from a fall, or from forcing a cable in at the wrong angle
• Wear and tear – after thousands of plug-unplug cycles, the port contacts wear down. This is normal after 2-3 years of daily use

A charging port replacement is a straightforward repair. We replace the entire port assembly, which also includes the microphone on most phone models, so you get a fresh port and a fresh mic.

For iPhones, we handle all models from iPhone 7 through to the latest iPhone 16 range. For Samsung phones, we repair the full Galaxy S and A series.

Wireless Charging as a Backup

If your phone supports wireless charging (most phones from the last 4-5 years do), a wireless charging pad can keep you going while you wait for a port repair. It’s slower than wired charging but it works independently of the charging port.

You can pick up a basic Qi wireless charger for under £20. We stock them at our shop if you need one.

Don’t Wait Until It Stops Completely

A charging port that works intermittently today will fail completely soon. The lint gets more compacted, the corrosion spreads, and the worn contacts lose more connection area over time.

If your phone only charges at certain angles, or you’ve been balancing books on top of the cable to keep it connected – it’s time to get it looked at.

We’re at 1 City Rd, St Andrews. Walk in anytime.

Call 01334 478866 or walk in. Most charging port repairs are done same-day.

If you’re a final-year student at St Andrews, your dissertation is likely the most important document on your laptop right now. Thousands of words, months of research, all saved on one device.

What happens if that device fails?

Every year between April and May, we see students come into our City Rd shop in a panic because their laptop has died mid-dissertation. The good news is most of these disasters are preventable. Here’s how to make sure your laptop survives dissertation season.

Back Up Your Dissertation – Properly

“I’ll back it up later” is the most expensive sentence in student life.

Your dissertation should exist in at least three places at all times:

• On your laptop – the working copy
• In the cloud – OneDrive (free with your St Andrews Office 365 account), Google Drive, or Dropbox
• On a USB drive or external hard drive – a physical backup you keep separate from your laptop

Set up automatic cloud sync so every save goes straight to the cloud. If your laptop dies tomorrow, you should be able to log into OneDrive from a library computer and carry on writing within five minutes.

Version Your Files

Don’t just save one file called “dissertation.docx”. Use version numbers: dissertation-v1.docx, dissertation-v2.docx, and so on. Or better yet, use the versioning built into OneDrive or Google Docs, which automatically saves every version and lets you roll back.

This protects you from file corruption, accidental deletions, and the classic “I accidentally replaced 2,000 words and saved over it.”

Check Your Laptop’s Health Now

Don’t wait until something breaks. Run through these checks today:

Storage Space

If your drive is more than 85% full, your laptop will slow down noticeably. Delete old files, empty the recycle bin, and clear your Downloads folder. You need breathing room for your operating system to work properly.

Battery Health

If your laptop dies after an hour unplugged, you have a problem. The library doesn’t always have plug sockets available, and you don’t want your laptop shutting down during a writing session.

On Windows, open Command Prompt and type powercfg /batteryreport to see your battery health. On Mac, hold Option and click the battery icon in the menu bar for a condition report.

If your battery is degraded, a battery replacement takes about an hour and gives you a full day of use again.

Screen Condition

A cracked or flickering laptop screen isn’t just annoying – it’s a distraction that costs you productivity during the most intense writing period of your degree. Get it fixed now rather than trying to work around it for six more weeks.

Keyboard and Trackpad

Sticky keys, unresponsive keys, or a jumpy trackpad all slow down your writing. If your spacebar requires extra force or your ‘e’ key only works half the time, that’s fixable. A keyboard repair is straightforward and makes a massive difference to your writing speed.

Speed Up a Slow Laptop Before Deadline Week

If your laptop takes ages to start up or freezes when you have Word, Chrome, and a PDF reader open at the same time, these are signs it’s struggling.

The fastest fix is an SSD upgrade. If your laptop still has a mechanical hard drive, swapping it for an SSD will transform performance. Boot time drops from two minutes to 15 seconds, and applications open instantly. We clone your existing drive to the new SSD, so you don’t lose any files or settings.

If your laptop already has an SSD but is still slow, the issue is usually too many background processes, insufficient RAM, or malware. Bring it in and we’ll take a look.

What to Do If Your Laptop Fails During Dissertation Season

If the worst happens and your laptop stops working:

1. Don’t panic – your data is almost certainly recoverable, even from a laptop that won’t turn on
2. Don’t try to fix it yourself – opening a laptop without the right tools can cause more damage, especially to the screen or ribbon cables
3. Bring it straight to us – we prioritise urgent student repairs during dissertation season because we understand the deadline pressure
4. Use a library computer in the meantime – log into OneDrive or Google Drive and continue writing while we repair your laptop

In most cases, we can recover your files even from a dead laptop. We remove the hard drive or SSD, connect it to our equipment, and extract everything. Even if the motherboard has failed, your data is usually intact on the storage drive.

Repairs We Commonly Do During Dissertation Season

• SSD upgrades – the best speed improvement for older laptops
• Battery replacements – get a full day of unplugged use again
• Screen repairs – cracked, flickering, or dim screens fixed same-day
• Keyboard repairs – sticky or unresponsive keys sorted out
• Data recovery – files recovered from dead or damaged laptops
• Malware removal – speed restored by removing background junk

Get Sorted Before Deadlines Hit

The best time to fix laptop problems is before they become emergencies. If your laptop is showing signs of trouble – slow performance, short battery life, cracked screen, dodgy keyboard – bring it to 1 City Rd now.

Most repairs are completed within 24-48 hours, and we’ll always give you a realistic timeframe before starting any work.

Call 01334 478866 or walk in. Free diagnosis, no obligation.

Every April, the same thing happens. Exam season hits, you open your laptop to start revising, and it takes three minutes to load a Word document. The spinning wheel becomes your new study partner.

We see a spike in laptop repairs at our City Rd shop every spring, and it’s not a coincidence. Here’s what’s going on and what you can do about it.

Your Laptop Has Been Working All Year Too

Think about what your laptop has been through since September. Nine months of lecture notes, downloaded PDFs, browser tabs left open overnight, software updates that installed half-finished, and apps you installed once for a group project and never removed.

All of that accumulates. Your hard drive fills up, your RAM gets eaten by background processes, and your startup time creeps from 30 seconds to two minutes without you noticing – until you actually need the machine to perform.

The 5 Most Common Reasons Student Laptops Slow Down

1. Storage Is Nearly Full

This is the biggest one. When your hard drive or SSD gets above 90% capacity, everything slows down dramatically. Your laptop needs free space to manage temporary files, virtual memory, and system updates.

Check your storage right now:

• Windows: Settings > System > Storage
• Mac: Apple menu > About This Mac > Storage

If you’re above 85%, that’s your problem. Old downloads, duplicate photos, cached Spotify songs, and lecture recordings from first year all add up.

2. Too Many Startup Programs

Every app you install tries to add itself to your startup list. Spotify, Discord, OneDrive, Teams, Zoom, Steam – they all want to launch when you turn your laptop on. Each one uses RAM and CPU before you’ve even opened Chrome.

On Windows, press Ctrl+Shift+Esc to open Task Manager, then click the Startup tab. Disable anything you don’t need running immediately.

3. You Still Have a Mechanical Hard Drive

If your laptop is more than three or four years old, it might still have a mechanical hard drive (HDD) instead of a solid-state drive (SSD). The difference is enormous – an SSD upgrade can make a five-year-old laptop feel new again.

An SSD reads data roughly 10 times faster than a mechanical drive. Boot time drops from two minutes to 15 seconds. Applications open instantly. This is the single best upgrade you can make to an older laptop.

4. Malware or Adware Running in the Background

Those free PDF converters and “study helper” browser extensions you downloaded? Some of them come bundled with adware that runs in the background, eating your CPU and RAM while serving you pop-up ads.

Signs of malware: random pop-ups, your browser homepage changing by itself, new toolbars appearing, or your fan running constantly even when you’re not doing much.

A professional virus and malware removal cleans all of this out and gets your laptop back to normal.

5. Thermal Throttling

Your laptop has a cooling fan. Over time, dust and fluff build up inside, blocking airflow. When the processor overheats, it deliberately slows itself down to prevent damage. This is called thermal throttling, and it’s extremely common in laptops that have never been cleaned internally.

If your laptop gets hot to the touch, the fan sounds like a jet engine, or it randomly shuts down – dust buildup is likely the cause.

Quick Fixes You Can Do Tonight

Before bringing your laptop in for repair, try these:

• Delete old files – empty your Downloads folder, clear your Recycle Bin/Trash, remove apps you don’t use
• Close browser tabs – 47 open Chrome tabs uses more RAM than most apps combined. Bookmark what you need and close the rest
• Restart your laptop – sounds obvious, but many students put their laptops to sleep instead of restarting. A proper restart clears temporary files and resets memory
• Run Windows Update – pending updates can cause background processes that slow everything down
• Check for malware – run Windows Defender (built-in) or download Malwarebytes for a free scan

When to Bring It to a Professional

If the quick fixes above don’t help, or if you’re dealing with hardware issues (overheating, battery dying fast, cracked screen, broken keyboard), it’s time for a professional repair.

Common pre-exam repairs we handle:

• SSD upgrades – the most impactful speed improvement, usually done same-day
• Screen replacements – cracked screens, dead pixels, flickering displays
• Battery replacements – if your laptop dies after 30 minutes unplugged, the battery needs replacing
• Virus removal – deep clean of malware, adware, and unwanted programs
• RAM upgrades – if your laptop has 4GB or 8GB and you’re running multiple applications, more RAM helps
• Thermal paste replacement and fan cleaning – fixes overheating and thermal throttling

Don’t Wait Until the Night Before Your Exam

The worst time to discover your laptop needs repair is the night before your dissertation is due. If your laptop has been showing signs of slowing down – sluggish startups, freezing, overheating, short battery life – get it sorted now while there’s time.

We’re at 1 City Rd, St Andrews, a two-minute walk from the town centre. Walk-ins welcome, and most repairs are completed within 24-48 hours.

Need your laptop fixed before exams? Call us on 01334 478866 or just drop in. We’ll give you an honest estimate before any work starts.

You pick up your Nintendo Switch, press the power button, and nothing happens. No logo, no screen, no sign of life. Or maybe you’ve plugged it in to charge and the screen stays completely dark. Before you panic, there are several things you can try at home – and if none of them work, we can fix it.

Here’s a step-by-step guide to troubleshooting a Switch that won’t charge or turn on.

Step-by-Step Troubleshooting

1. Force Restart It

This is the first thing to try, and it fixes the problem more often than you’d expect. Hold down the power button for a full 15 seconds. Not a quick press – hold it down and count to fifteen. Then wait a few seconds and press the power button normally.

The Switch can sometimes freeze in a state where the screen is off but the system isn’t truly shut down. A force restart clears this. If you see the Nintendo logo after doing this, you’re sorted.

2. Try a Different USB-C Cable and Charger

Before blaming the Switch itself, rule out the charger. The original Nintendo Switch charger (the one that came with the dock) outputs the correct voltage and wattage. Third-party USB-C chargers can work, but not all of them deliver enough power to charge the Switch properly.

Try the original charger if you have it. If you’ve been using a third-party cable, swap it out. USB-C cables do wear out – especially if they’ve been bent, yanked, or stepped on.

3. Check the USB-C Port for Damage

Look closely at the USB-C port on the bottom of your Switch. Use a torch if you need to. You’re looking for:

• Bent or broken pins – the tiny metal contacts inside the port can get pushed to one side or snapped off entirely
• Debris – lint from pockets and bags works its way into the port over time, blocking the connection
• Visible damage – scorch marks, discolouration, or a port that feels loose when you plug in the cable

If the port looks damaged, that’s likely your problem – and it’s one we see regularly.

4. Let It Charge for at Least 30 Minutes

If your Switch has been completely dead for a while – sat in a drawer for months, for example – the battery may be so flat that it won’t show any sign of life immediately when plugged in. Connect the original charger directly to the Switch (not through the dock) and leave it for at least 30 minutes before trying to turn it on.

Some completely drained Switch batteries need even longer. Give it an hour if 30 minutes doesn’t work.

5. Test Handheld Mode vs Docked Mode

If your Switch charges and works fine in handheld mode but won’t display anything when docked, the problem is likely the dock rather than the Switch itself. Try a different HDMI cable, a different TV input, or check that the dock’s USB-C connector isn’t damaged.

If it works in the dock but won’t charge in handheld mode, that points to a partial fault with the USB-C port – it’s making enough contact for the dock’s fixed connector but not for a cable.

Common Causes of Switch Charging Problems

Damaged USB-C Port

This is by far the most common reason a Switch stops charging. The USB-C port on the Switch is a known weak point. The design is relatively fragile, and the way people plug and unplug the cable (especially kids and teenagers) puts constant stress on the connector. Over time, the internal pins bend or break, and the port stops making a reliable connection.

We replace USB-C ports on Nintendo Switches regularly. It’s a straightforward repair for us.

Faulty Battery

Switch batteries have a limited lifespan. If your Switch is several years old, the battery may have degraded to the point where it can no longer hold a charge. Signs of a failing battery include rapid drain (full to dead in under an hour), the Switch only working while plugged in, or the battery percentage jumping around erratically.

Blown Charging IC Chip

This is the more serious one. The charging IC (integrated circuit) chip manages power delivery to the Switch. Using a non-Nintendo charger that delivers incorrect voltage can damage this chip. Cheap third-party dock alternatives are a common culprit – some have been known to fry the charging circuitry entirely.

A blown charging IC requires micro-soldering to replace. It’s a more involved repair, but it’s still fixable.

When to Bring It In

If you’ve tried all five troubleshooting steps above and your Switch still won’t charge or turn on, it’s time for a professional repair. The most common fix – a USB-C port replacement – is quick and affordable. We’ll let you know exactly what’s wrong before we start any work.

Other Common Switch Issues We Fix

While you’re here, it’s worth mentioning Joy-Con drift – that infuriating problem where your character moves on screen even when you’re not touching the analogue stick. It’s caused by wear on the joystick sensor, and it’s one of the most common Nintendo Switch repairs we handle. If your Joy-Cons are drifting, we can sort that too.

We also fix cracked screens, broken rails, unresponsive buttons, and fan issues on all Switch models – the original, the Lite, and the OLED. Check our gaming console repair page for more.

Get Your Switch Fixed in St Andrews

A dead Switch is no fun – especially when you’re in the middle of a game or it’s your main way to unwind between lectures. Bring it in and we’ll work out what’s wrong. Most Switch charging issues are fixable the same day.

Repair St Andrews, 1 City Rd, St Andrews, KY16 9XQ. Call 01334 478866 or walk in. Open Monday to Friday 09:30-17:30, Saturday 10:00-17:00.

Every time someone brings in a phone with a smashed screen, we hear the same thing: “I kept meaning to get a screen protector.” It’s one of those things that feels optional until you’re staring at a web of cracks across your display and facing a repair bill.

So is a screen protector actually worth it, or is it just another accessory the phone industry wants to sell you? Here’s our honest take.

Modern Phone Screens Are Tough – But Not Tough Enough

Phone manufacturers have made huge advances in screen durability. Apple uses Ceramic Shield on recent iPhones. Samsung uses Gorilla Glass Victus. These are genuinely impressive materials that resist scratches far better than the screens of ten years ago.

But here’s the crucial distinction: scratch-resistant does not mean shatter-proof. Your phone screen might survive being in the same pocket as your keys without a mark. But drop it face-down onto a paving slab from waist height and that Ceramic Shield will crack just like any other glass.

Scratch resistance and impact resistance are two different things. Screen protectors help with both.

Types of Screen Protectors

Tempered Glass

This is what we recommend and what we sell in the shop. Tempered glass protectors are a thin layer of hardened glass that sits on top of your actual screen. They feel almost identical to the real screen – same smoothness, same touch sensitivity, same clarity.

The key benefit: when you drop your phone, the tempered glass protector absorbs the impact and cracks instead of your actual screen. It sacrifices itself. A cracked £10 protector that saved a £200 screen is the best money you’ve ever spent.

Plastic Film

The cheapest option, and you get what you pay for. Plastic film protectors are fine for preventing scratches – they’ll stop keys and coins from marking your screen. But they offer almost no impact protection. If your phone hits the ground hard, a plastic film isn’t going to save it.

They also tend to feel worse under your finger, pick up smudges more easily, and develop bubbles over time. We’d skip these.

Liquid Screen Protectors

These are marketed as an invisible coating that hardens your screen. You apply a liquid, let it dry, and supposedly your screen becomes more resistant to damage. The reality? There’s very little independent evidence that liquid protectors offer meaningful impact protection. They might add a marginal improvement to scratch resistance, but they won’t stop your screen from cracking in a drop.

If something sounds too good to be true, it usually is. Stick with tempered glass.

How to Tell if Your Screen Protector Saved Your Screen

After a drop, peel up a corner of your screen protector carefully. If the protector is cracked but the actual screen underneath is clean and undamaged – congratulations, it did its job perfectly. Peel the broken protector off, apply a new one, and carry on.

We see this regularly. Someone comes in convinced their screen is smashed, and it turns out the protector took the hit. It’s always a relief.

The Cost Argument

This is really what it comes down to. A decent tempered glass screen protector costs around £10. A phone screen repair costs £69 to £299 depending on the model. An iPhone screen replacement for a recent Pro model is at the top end of that range.

Even if a screen protector only saves your screen once over the life of your phone, it’s paid for itself many times over. It’s cheap insurance.

When a Screen Protector Won’t Help

We should be honest about the limitations too. A screen protector is not a magic shield. There are situations where your screen will break regardless:

• High drops onto hard surfaces – a phone falling from a balcony or the top of a ladder onto concrete is generating too much force for a thin protector to absorb
• Point impacts – landing directly on a sharp stone or the corner of a step concentrates the force into a tiny area, which can overwhelm any protector
• Edge impacts – if your phone lands on its edge or corner, the force bypasses the protector entirely and goes straight into the screen’s weak points

A screen protector significantly improves your odds in everyday drops – waist height, off a table, out of your lap when you stand up. For extreme impacts, you need a good case as well.

How to Apply a Screen Protector Properly

The reason most people get bubbles is dust. Here’s how to do it right:

1. Find a clean, still environment – a bathroom after a shower is ideal because the steam settles airborne dust
2. Clean the screen thoroughly – use the alcohol wipe and microfibre cloth that come in the kit
3. Use the dust removal stickers – dab them across the screen to pick up any remaining particles
4. Align the protector carefully – line up the speaker cutout and camera first, then lower it down from one end
5. Press from the centre outward – use a card or the included squeegee to push any remaining air bubbles to the edges

Or – skip the hassle entirely and let us do it. We sell screen protectors at our shop in St Andrews and we’ll fit them for you properly. No bubbles, no misalignment, no fuss.

Our Recommendation

Yes, a screen protector is worth it. Specifically, a tempered glass one. It costs a fraction of a screen repair, it doesn’t affect how your phone looks or feels, and it genuinely works. We’ve seen it save screens hundreds of times.

Pair it with a decent case and your phone has the best chance of surviving whatever daily life throws at it.

Repair St Andrews, 1 City Rd, St Andrews, KY16 9XQ. Call 01334 478866 or walk in. Open Monday to Friday 09:30-17:30, Saturday 10:00-17:00.

Before you bring your phone in for any repair, there’s one thing you should do first: back it up. Your photos, messages, contacts, and apps are irreplaceable. The repair itself is safe – we take every precaution with your data – but a backup gives you complete peace of mind.

Here’s exactly how to do it, whether you’re on iPhone or Android.

How to Back Up an iPhone

Option 1: iCloud Backup (Easiest)

This is the quickest way and you can do it from your phone right now. Make sure you’re connected to Wi-Fi, then:

1. Open Settings
2. Tap your name at the top of the screen
3. Tap iCloud
4. Tap iCloud Backup
5. Tap Back Up Now

The backup will run in the background. It can take anywhere from a few minutes to an hour depending on how much data you have and your internet speed. Keep your phone connected to Wi-Fi and plugged in until it finishes.

One thing to check: make sure you have enough iCloud storage. Apple gives you 5GB free, which fills up fast. If you need more space temporarily, you can upgrade to 50GB for £0.99 per month and cancel after.

Option 2: Back Up to Your Computer

If you have a Mac running macOS Catalina or later, connect your iPhone with a cable and open Finder. Your phone will appear in the sidebar. Click it, then click Back Up Now. On older Macs or Windows PCs, use iTunes instead.

Computer backups are more comprehensive than iCloud – they can include Health data, saved passwords, and Wi-Fi settings if you tick “Encrypt local backup.”

How to Back Up a Samsung or Android Phone

Option 1: Google Backup

Most Android phones back up automatically to Google, but it’s worth checking and running a manual backup before your repair:

1. Open Settings
2. Tap Google
3. Tap Backup (or search “backup” in Settings)
4. Tap Back up now

This saves your apps, call history, contacts, device settings, and SMS messages to your Google account. It doesn’t back up everything though – more on that below.

Option 2: Samsung Cloud (Samsung Phones Only)

Samsung offers its own backup service as well. Go to Settings, then Accounts and backup, then Samsung Cloud. This can back up things that Google Backup might miss, like your Samsung-specific settings, home screen layout, and Samsung app data.

Using both Google Backup and Samsung Cloud gives you the most complete coverage.

What Gets Backed Up – and What Doesn’t

This is the part most people don’t realise until it’s too late. Standard backups don’t cover everything:

• WhatsApp – has its own separate backup system. On iPhone, go to WhatsApp > Settings > Chats > Chat Backup > Back Up Now (backs up to iCloud). On Android, it backs up to Google Drive via the same menu.
• Authenticator apps – Google Authenticator historically didn’t sync to the cloud, meaning if your phone was wiped, you’d lose all your 2FA codes. Newer versions now offer account syncing – make sure it’s enabled. Microsoft Authenticator also has cloud backup in its settings.
• Banking apps – most banking apps require you to set them up fresh on a new or wiped device. This is normal and is a security feature. You’ll just need to log in again.
• Some game progress – games that save progress locally (not to a server) might not be backed up. If you’re deep into a game, check if it has a cloud save option.

Make Sure Your Photos Are Syncing

Photos are usually the thing people care about most. Check that your photos are actually uploading to the cloud:

• iPhone – go to Settings > your name > iCloud > Photos and make sure iCloud Photos is turned on. If it says “Uploading X items,” wait for it to finish before bringing your phone in.
• Android – open the Google Photos app, tap your profile picture, and check if it says “Backup complete.” If it says “Waiting for Wi-Fi” or shows items pending, connect to Wi-Fi and let it finish.

Check Your Contacts

Your contacts should sync automatically if you’re signed into iCloud (iPhone) or Google (Android). To double-check, open contacts on another device or in a web browser – go to icloud.com/contacts or contacts.google.com and make sure your contacts are all there.

What if Your Screen Is Too Broken to Back Up?

This is a common situation. Your screen is so cracked you can’t see anything, or the touch isn’t responding, so you can’t navigate to the backup settings. A few options:

• If the screen still displays but touch doesn’t work – on some phones, you can connect a USB mouse via an OTG adapter and navigate that way
• If automatic backups were already enabled – check your iCloud or Google account from another device. Your most recent automatic backup might be only a day or two old
• Bring it to us – we can help with data recovery. In many cases, we can repair the screen first (even temporarily) to allow a backup before doing any further work

What if Your Phone Won’t Turn On?

Don’t assume your data is gone. Even if your phone won’t power up, the data is almost always still sitting on the storage chip inside. The storage is separate from the battery, screen, and other components.

Whether it’s water damage, a dead battery, or a failed charging port, the data itself is usually recoverable. Bring it in and we’ll assess the situation.

A Quick Backup Checklist Before Your Repair

1. Run a full iCloud or Google backup
2. Check that photos have finished syncing
3. Back up WhatsApp separately
4. Verify contacts are synced (check on another device)
5. Note down any authenticator app codes or enable cloud sync
6. Charge your phone to at least 50% so the backup completes

This whole process takes 15 to 30 minutes and could save you a lot of stress. It’s worth doing even if you’re coming in for a simple screen repair – because good habits protect your data in every situation, not just repairs.

Bring Your Phone In – Backed Up and Ready

Once you’ve backed up, bring your phone in and we’ll take care of the rest. And if you’re stuck at any point in the backup process, just give us a call – we’re happy to walk you through it.

Repair St Andrews, 1 City Rd, St Andrews, KY16 9XQ. Call 01334 478866 or walk in. Open Monday to Friday 09:30-17:30, Saturday 10:00-17:00.

The PS5 is a brilliant console, but it’s not bulletproof. After a year or two of heavy use – especially in a dusty student flat where it’s running for hours during exam procrastination season – things start to go wrong.

Here are the most common PS5 problems we see at our St Andrews repair shop, what causes them, and when you should bring it in.

1. Overheating and Loud Fan Noise

If your PS5 sounds like a jet engine or shuts itself down mid-game with an overheating warning, something is blocking its ability to cool itself.

What Causes It

• Dust buildup – The internal fan and heatsink collect dust over time, restricting airflow. Student accommodation with carpeted floors makes this worse.
• Poor ventilation – Stuffing your PS5 into an enclosed TV cabinet or bookshelf traps heat around the console.
• Thermal paste degradation – The thermal paste between the processor and heatsink dries out after a couple of years, reducing heat transfer.

What You Can Try

Use a can of compressed air to blow dust out of the vents. Make sure the console has at least 10cm of clearance on all sides. Keep it on a hard, flat surface – not a carpet, bed, or sofa.

When to Bring It In

If cleaning the vents doesn’t help, the thermal paste likely needs replacing. This involves a full teardown. We do this regularly – it’s a straightforward job that makes a huge difference. Check our PS5 repair page for more details.

2. Disc Drive Not Reading or Ejecting Discs

Your PS5 makes grinding noises, spits discs back out, or just refuses to recognise them. Sometimes it won’t eject at all.

What Causes It

The laser lens gets dirty or misaligned. The drive rollers that pull the disc in can wear out. In some cases, the drive’s ribbon cable develops a fault.

What You Can Try

Make sure you’re inserting discs label-side up (it sounds obvious, but it happens). Try a different disc to rule out a scratched game. You can also try the manual eject screw on the bottom of the console if a disc is stuck.

When to Bring It In

If multiple discs won’t read or the drive makes unusual noises, the drive needs professional attention. We can clean the laser, replace the rollers, or swap the drive mechanism entirely.

3. HDMI Port Damage

No picture on your TV, flickering output, or a loose-feeling HDMI connection usually points to a damaged HDMI port.

What Causes It

Rough cable handling is the main culprit. Yanking the HDMI cable out at an angle or tripping over it bends the tiny pins inside the port. Moving the console between rooms without disconnecting cables first is another common cause.

When to Bring It In

There’s no home fix for bent or broken HDMI pins. This is a soldering job – the port needs to be desoldered from the motherboard and replaced. We handle these repairs regularly.

4. DualSense Controller Drift

Your character walks on its own. The camera slowly rotates. You’re aiming and the crosshair drifts to one side. Classic stick drift.

This happens because the potentiometer inside the analogue stick module wears down with use. It affects every controller eventually – PS5, Xbox, Switch. We replace the entire stick module rather than just cleaning it, which gives you a lasting fix. See our gaming console repair page for controller repairs.

5. Database Corruption and System Crashes

If your PS5 freezes, crashes to a blue screen, or asks you to rebuild the database every time you turn it on, the system software has become corrupted.

What You Can Try

1. Boot into Safe Mode (hold the power button until you hear a second beep)
2. Select “Rebuild Database” – this reorganises your storage without deleting games
3. If that doesn’t work, try “Clear Cache and Rebuild Database”

When to Bring It In

If Safe Mode options don’t fix it, the internal SSD could be failing. We can test the drive, reinstall the system software, or replace the SSD if needed.

6. Rest Mode Problems

Some PS5s crash, freeze, or lose data when waking from Rest Mode. This has been an issue since launch and while Sony has improved it with updates, some consoles still struggle.

The safest approach is to fully shut down your PS5 instead of using Rest Mode, especially before moving it or during thunderstorms. If your console consistently crashes on wake, bring it in so we can check for underlying hardware issues.

Keeping Your PS5 Healthy

• Give it space – Don’t put it inside an enclosed TV cabinet. It needs airflow on all sides.
• Keep it horizontal – The horizontal position provides better stability and slightly better airflow.
• Clean the vents – A quick blast of compressed air every couple of months prevents dust buildup.
• Hard surfaces only – Never put it on carpet, a duvet, or a cushion. A desk or shelf is ideal.
• Unplug cables carefully – Pull HDMI and power cables straight out, never at an angle.

If you’re a student in St Andrews, your console is probably working harder than you are during revision week. A bit of maintenance goes a long way.

PS5 Repair in St Andrews

Whether it’s overheating, disc drive failure, HDMI damage, or controller drift, we fix PS5 problems at our shop on City Rd. No appointment needed – just bring it in and we’ll take a look.

Repair St Andrews, 1 City Rd, St Andrews, KY16 9XQ. Call 01334 478866 or walk in. Open Monday to Friday 09:30-17:30, Saturday 10:00-17:00.

You press the power button and nothing happens. No screen, no fan, no lights. Or maybe there’s a brief flicker and then nothing. Either way, your laptop is dead and you need it working – especially if your dissertation is on there.

Before you panic, work through these steps. Many “dead” laptops have a simple fix.

Step-by-Step Troubleshooting

1. Is It Actually Off, or Just the Screen?

This sounds silly, but your laptop might be running with a dead display. Listen for fan noise. Check if the keyboard backlight is on. Look for the power LED. If the laptop seems to be running but the screen is black, try connecting it to an external monitor with an HDMI cable.

If you get a picture on the external screen, your display or its cable has failed – not the whole laptop.

2. Try a Hard Reset

Hold the power button down for 15-20 seconds. This forces the laptop to shut down completely, clearing any stuck state in the hardware. Wait 10 seconds, then press the power button normally.

On some laptops you can also try disconnecting the charger, removing the battery (if it’s removable), holding the power button for 30 seconds to drain residual charge, then reconnecting everything and trying again.

3. Check the Charger

A dead battery with a faulty charger looks exactly like a dead laptop. Check these things:

• Is the charger LED on? – Many chargers have a small light that confirms they’re working.
• Is the charging light on the laptop lit? – This tells you power is reaching the laptop.
• Try a different charger – Borrow one from a friend or flatmate if possible. USB-C chargers are interchangeable across brands.
• Check the cable – Look for kinks, fraying, or a loose connection where the cable meets the brick.

4. Remove External Devices

Unplug everything – USB drives, external monitors, docking stations, mice, keyboards. A faulty external device can sometimes prevent a laptop from booting. Try powering on with nothing connected except the charger.

5. Check for Signs of Life

Press the power button and watch carefully. Any brief flash of a keyboard backlight? Does the caps lock key toggle when you press it? Can you hear the fan spin for even a second? These clues help narrow down the problem.

Common Causes of a Dead Laptop

• Dead battery – If your battery won’t hold charge and the charger is also faulty or disconnected, the laptop has no power source at all. A battery replacement gets it running again.
• Faulty charger or cable – Charger cables take a beating, especially when they live in a backpack being carried between lectures. This is the cheapest fix and the most common cause.
• Motherboard failure – A failed component on the logic board can prevent the laptop from powering on at all. Sometimes this is repairable at component level, sometimes the board needs replacing.
• RAM issues – A loose or failed RAM stick can cause a blank screen on boot. On laptops with accessible RAM slots, reseating the memory can fix this.
• Power button failure – Rare, but the power button itself can fail. The laptop is fine – it just can’t receive the signal to turn on.

What About Your Data?

Here’s the reassuring bit. In the vast majority of dead laptops, your data is completely fine. Your files live on the storage drive (SSD or hard drive), which is a separate component from the motherboard. Even if the motherboard has failed completely, we can usually remove the drive and recover everything from it.

The exceptions are rare – liquid damage that reached the storage drive, or an encrypted drive where the password is unknown. But in most cases, a dead laptop does not mean lost data. We offer data recovery for exactly these situations.

If your laptop dies during dissertation season – and we see this every April and May – don’t assume the worst. Bring it in and we’ll get your files off it, even if the laptop itself can’t be saved.

We Repair All Laptop Brands

Whether it’s a MacBook, Dell, HP, Lenovo, ASUS, or anything else, we can help. The troubleshooting process is similar across brands, and we carry common parts for most popular models.

• MacBooks – Battery, screen, keyboard, logic board repairs
• Windows laptops – All brands, all models. Battery, screen, charging port, motherboard
• Chromebooks – Screen and battery replacements

Laptop Repair in St Andrews

If your laptop won’t turn on and the troubleshooting steps above haven’t worked, bring it to us. We’ll figure out what’s wrong, give you a quote, and get it fixed as quickly as possible. No appointment needed.

Repair St Andrews, 1 City Rd, St Andrews, KY16 9XQ. Call 01334 478866 or walk in. Open Monday to Friday 09:30-17:30, Saturday 10:00-17:00.

Your character starts walking on its own. The camera slowly pans to the right. You’re lining up a shot and the crosshair drifts away. You haven’t touched the stick, but something is definitely moving.

This is stick drift, and if you’ve used a controller long enough, you’ve probably experienced it. Here’s why it happens, what you can try at home, and when it’s time for a proper fix.

What Is Controller Drift?

Stick drift is when your controller registers movement on an analogue stick even though you’re not touching it. It can be subtle – a slow camera pan you only notice when you let go of the stick – or severe enough to make games unplayable.

It shows up differently depending on the game. In shooters, your aim wanders. In racing games, your car pulls to one side. In menus, the cursor scrolls on its own. Once you notice it, you can’t un-notice it.

Why It Happens

Inside every analogue stick is a small component called a potentiometer. It’s a pair of tiny metal contacts that slide against each other as you move the stick, translating physical movement into electrical signals the console can understand.

The problem is simple – metal rubbing on metal wears down over time. After thousands of hours of use, those contacts degrade. The signal becomes noisy and inaccurate, and the controller starts registering inputs that aren’t there.

This isn’t a design flaw specific to Xbox. It affects every controller that uses this type of potentiometer – and that’s all of them. PS5 DualSense controllers get it. Nintendo Switch Pro Controllers get it. The infamous Joy-Con drift on the Nintendo Switch is the exact same underlying issue, just in a smaller, more fragile package.

Dust and debris getting inside the stick mechanism can also cause drift or make existing drift worse. But if the potentiometer itself is worn, no amount of cleaning will permanently fix it.

What You Can Try at Home

Recalibrate the Sticks

On Xbox, go to Settings, then Devices and Connections, then Accessories. Select your controller and check the stick calibration. You can also adjust the deadzone in many games – increasing the deadzone means the game ignores small movements near the centre of the stick, which can mask mild drift.

Clean Around the Stick Base

Use a can of compressed air to blow around the base of the analogue stick while gently moving it in circles. This can dislodge dust and debris that’s interfering with the sensor. Some people use a small amount of isopropyl alcohol (90% or higher) on a cotton bud around the stick base.

Update the Controller Firmware

Connect your controller to your Xbox with a USB cable and check for firmware updates in the Accessories app. Occasionally, a firmware update can improve stick calibration.

The Reality Check

These fixes work well for mild drift caused by dust or calibration issues. If the potentiometer is physically worn, cleaning and recalibrating will only provide temporary relief. The drift will come back, usually within days or weeks.

When to Get It Professionally Repaired

If cleaning and recalibration haven’t solved the problem, or the drift keeps returning, the analogue stick module needs to be replaced. This isn’t a surface-level clean – we desolder the old module from the circuit board and solder in a new one.

The repair gives you a brand new potentiometer, so you’re starting fresh rather than fighting against worn-out components. It’s a precise job that requires soldering equipment and experience, which is why it’s not really a DIY fix.

Repair vs Buying New

A new Xbox wireless controller costs around £55-65. A PS5 DualSense is £60-70. If your controller is otherwise in good condition – no sticky buttons, no broken bumpers, no battery issues – a stick module replacement costs significantly less than buying new.

It’s also worth considering the environmental angle. A controller is a complex piece of electronics. Replacing one small component instead of throwing the whole thing away makes sense, especially when the rest of it works perfectly.

Other Controller Problems We Fix

Stick drift is the most common issue, but it’s not the only one:

• Sticky or unresponsive buttons – Usually caused by spilled drinks or general grime buildup
• Broken bumpers or triggers – The plastic clips inside can snap with heavy use
• Battery not holding charge – Rechargeable battery packs degrade over time
• Connection issues – Bluetooth or wireless dropouts can be caused by antenna problems

We repair controllers for Xbox, PS5, and Nintendo Switch. Check our gaming console repair page for the full list of what we cover.

Controller Repair in St Andrews

Bring your drifting controller to us and we’ll replace the stick module with a new one. Most controller repairs are done quickly, so you won’t be without it for long.

Repair St Andrews, 1 City Rd, St Andrews, KY16 9XQ. Call 01334 478866 or walk in. Open Monday to Friday 09:30-17:30, Saturday 10:00-17:00.

When your phone needs a new screen or battery, one of the first questions is: what kind of part goes in? You’ll see terms like “genuine”, “OEM”, “aftermarket”, and “refurbished original” thrown around, and it’s not always clear what they actually mean or whether the difference matters.

Here’s an honest breakdown – no hard sell, just the information you need to make a good decision.

What Do These Terms Actually Mean?

Genuine (OEM) Parts

OEM stands for Original Equipment Manufacturer. These parts are made by or for the company that built your phone. A genuine iPhone screen is the same component Apple would use. A genuine Samsung battery is the same one that came in the box.

These parts are identical in quality, fit, and performance to what your phone shipped with. They’re also the most expensive option.

Aftermarket Parts

Aftermarket parts are manufactured by third-party companies to match the specifications of the original. They’re not made by Apple or Samsung, but they’re designed to fit and function the same way.

Quality varies significantly. There’s a big difference between a cheap aftermarket screen and a high-quality one. The cheapest options cut corners on colour accuracy, brightness, and touch sensitivity. The best aftermarket parts are very close to original quality at a lower price point.

Refurbished Original Parts

These sit between genuine and aftermarket. A refurbished original screen, for example, uses the original LCD or OLED panel from a used phone, fitted with a new glass front and frame. You get the original display quality – colour accuracy, brightness, touch response – at a price between aftermarket and brand new genuine.

This is a popular option for iPhone repairs because you keep features like True Tone (which matches your screen’s colour temperature to the room you’re in).

Screen Differences

Screens are where the difference between part types is most noticeable.

• Colour accuracy – Genuine and refurbished original screens match the colours your phone was designed to display. Some aftermarket screens have a slightly cooler or warmer tone.
• Brightness – High-quality aftermarket screens get close to original brightness. Cheap ones can be noticeably dimmer, especially outdoors.
• Touch sensitivity – All quality screens should respond accurately to touch. Cheap aftermarket screens occasionally have dead spots or delayed response at the edges.
• True Tone (iPhone) – This feature requires either a genuine or refurbished original screen, or a programmer to transfer the data from your old screen. Some aftermarket screens don’t support it at all.

We offer iPhone screen repair and phone screen repair for all models, with a choice of part quality. iPhone screens range from £69-£299 depending on the model and part type. Samsung screen repairs vary by model too.

Battery Differences

Batteries are less visually obvious, but quality still matters.

• Capacity – A genuine battery matches the original mAh rating exactly. High-quality aftermarket batteries come very close. Cheap ones may advertise the same capacity but deliver less in practice.
• Longevity – Better quality cells retain their capacity for more charge cycles. A cheap battery might feel great for six months, then drop off quickly.
• Safety – This is the most important factor. Quality batteries – genuine or aftermarket – have proper safety certifications and protection circuits. We never use unbranded or uncertified batteries. Battery replacement prices range from £49-£119 depending on the model.

When Genuine Parts Are Worth It

You should consider genuine or refurbished original parts when:

• It’s a flagship phone you plan to keep – If you’re running an iPhone 15 Pro or Samsung Galaxy S24 and intend to use it for another two to three years, the best quality parts make sense.
• Display quality matters to you – If you’re particular about colour accuracy for photography or design work, genuine screens deliver exactly what the manufacturer intended.
• You want to maintain resale value – A phone repaired with genuine parts is worth more when you sell it or trade it in.

When Aftermarket Parts Are Perfectly Fine

Aftermarket parts are a sensible choice when:

• The phone is a couple of years old – If you’re planning to upgrade in the next year or so, a high-quality aftermarket screen will serve you well without the premium price.
• Budget is the priority – A good aftermarket part at a lower price is better than leaving your phone broken because the genuine option is too expensive.
• It’s a secondary or work phone – If it’s not your primary device, the subtle differences in screen quality won’t bother you.

What We Use

We offer both genuine and high-quality aftermarket options for most repairs. When you bring your phone in, we’ll explain the choices available for your specific model and the price difference between them. No pressure either way.

What we won’t do is use the cheapest parts available. Within aftermarket parts, quality tiers range from barely functional to nearly indistinguishable from original. We stock from the upper end of that range because a repair that fails or looks wrong after a few weeks isn’t a repair worth doing.

We’ll always tell you exactly what part is going into your phone before we start the work.

Phone Repair in St Andrews

Whether you want genuine, refurbished original, or quality aftermarket – we’ll give you an honest recommendation based on your phone, your budget, and how long you plan to keep it.

Repair St Andrews, 1 City Rd, St Andrews, KY16 9XQ. Call 01334 478866 or walk in. Open Monday to Friday 09:30-17:30, Saturday 10:00-17:00.